If you are a gun owner you will understand the need for secure storage. Until recently, gun safes and cabinets were of a standard type: they had locks that were either key or combination operated, and were as secure as they could possibly be with that sort of lock.
Lately, and with crime on the rise, it has become necessary to find ever more secure types of protection for guns – and also for other items – and thankfully, technology has allowed for the development of some very effective solutions.
The most up to date entry and security systems use biometric access technology. This goes beyond the means of keys and combinations when it comes to security, as it is personal and highly effective. Biometric locks use up to the minute technology that recognises the fingerprint of those with authorised access to the safe and its contents.
This makes a lot of sense where guns are concerned. For example, if you have children in the house, there’s always a chance they could come across the keys, be lucky enough to open the safe, and get their hands on your firearms – the potential of which does not bear thinking about.
So, why should you consider a biometric access system for your next gun safe? Besides security, there are a few other reasons, so let’s have a closer look.
A gun safe could mean your cabinet in which you keep your shotguns or rifles, a smaller wall-mounted safe for hand guns, or a hidden, portable safe for the same. It’s all down to the type and number of guns you have, and where you keep them secure.
If you do have guns in the house, the chances are you have them for enjoyment – shooting is a popular pastime – and also for security. It’s for the latter purpose that biometric gun safes offer a further benefit.
Let’s imagine an example: you fear an intruder is in your property, and you head to get your gun from the safe. If it’s key-locked you need to retrieve the key, get it in the lock, and open the safe. If it’s a combination safe, you need to enter the correct number and open the safe.
Both of these may take some doing if you are in a state of alarm or concern. Also, if your family are mot always certain where you keep the keys, it may be difficult for those in the house at the time to get hold of the keys, or they may forget the combination.
With a biometric access system you can reach your guns much more quickly; you simply present your fingerprint and the lock is opened. That’s far quicker, and easier, than having to search for keys or remember (or find) a combination. Yet, the level of access by unauthorised persons is just as limited, and perhaps even more so.
Another benefit of biometric gun safes is that access can only be granted by the owner. Some safes allow for a few fingerprints to be programmed into the system, while others can allow for a greater number. The recommendation is for as few people as possible to have access to your guns – only those, for instance, who will need them at any one point.
This means that the children will not be able to get into the safe. Some biometric gun safes come with a dual-locking system – either with keys or a combination in addition to the fingerprint – and you can choose to use this alongside or, to ensure rapid access, to use only the biometric aspect. Be aware that all biometric locks are electrically powered; some are mains-powered, some have batteries, and the best have direct power and a battery back-up, so it’s worth talking to suppliers about the best one for you.
A biometric lock is just one aspect of the security of your gun storage, as you need to look at other factors of individual safes. Look for one, for example, with interior hinges, as these are more difficult to break into than those hinged on the outside. Choose as a very minimum a safe with a 12-gauge steel door, and at least 7-gauge steel walls. Look for double-walled safes for added security.
Also, the safe will have a rating for drill-proofing and fire-proofing – or not! Choose one that has the highest rating for each, especially for drilling, in your price bracket, as this will give you added security. You also need to consider where your safe is going to be mounted or hidden, and this depends upon the type of safe you are installing.
So, a biometric gun safe is definitely the way to go, and you should consider the model you need alongside the installation space and the other factors mentioned. One last thing – remember that you may need to access your gun safe, in a hurry, in the dark, so it is worth putting it somewhere accessible in darkness and making sure that it has internal lights, just because you have the best gun safe doesn’t mean you’re prepared, it takes common sense too.
Protect your guns with a biometric safe, and protect your family and property too.
Bullets are just bullets right? The complicated part is the actual gun, right? Turns out there is actually a lot of technical details that go into bullets. There are so many different bullet calibers, sizes and types that it can really make your head spin!
So to try and help those folks out that want to know more about what the best bullets are to use in their gun, we put together this guide that looks at what bullet names mean, a bullet size chart comparing the most common bullet calibers, and what the different types of bullets are that are available to us.
Below is a video that shows an animation about how a bullet actually works when it is fired from a gun.
Before we can effectively interpret a bullet size chart, we need to understand the naming conventions used when referring to ammo. Sometimes when we talk about ammo, it sounds like we are at an IT convention or something with all the acronyms! So why do we name ammo the way we name them?
Unfortunately there is no central standard for the way bullets and ammo are to be named. So manufacturers typically each decide themselves how they will name their ammo. However, there is at least usually some logic applied to how ammo is named.
For example, some ammo are named according to their metric diameters, where the bore diameter and length of the casing is specified. A good example is the 7.62×51mm NATO cartridge, which has a bore diameter of 7.62 millimetres and a casing that is 51 millimetres in length.
In countries where the unit of measure is in inches, rather than millimetres, the naming of the bullet often refers to the bullet diameter in hundredths of an inch. For example the .308 Winchester has a bullet diameter of .308 inches.
So that explains the numbers in the naming convention of bullets. But what about the letters in ammo like .22LR and .380 ACP? The LR in .22LR refers to Long Rifle, while ACP refers to Automatic Colt Pistol.
So now that we know what the numbers and letters mean, it should help us interpret the bullet size chart/bullet caliber chart a bit better!
When we talk about the size of a bullet, we probably also need to look at the rim of a bullet. Most cartridges have some form of rim or ridge (sometimes referred to as a flange). The rim may actually serve a number of purposes, such as providing a lip for the extractor of the gun to engage or even just to provide headspace for the cartridge.
Headspacing is when the rim of the cartridge holds the cartridge at the proper depth in the chamber.
When a bullet is noted as rimless, the rim on the bullet casing has exactly (or at least almost) the same diameter as the base of the bullet casing. As there is not much of a rim protruding, rimless ammo feeds smoothly from box magazines, and are typically not well suited to break-open and revolver actions.
Examples of rimless ammo include 9mm, 40 S&W and .308 Winchester.
Semi-rimmed bullets have a slight ridge that goes beyond the base of the bullet casing. Semi-rimmed bullets are not as common as rimless or rimmed bullets, with examples including the .25 ACP and .38 ACP.
Rimmed bullets are the oldest style of bullet. With rimmed bullets the rim has a much larger diameter than the base of the bullet cartridge, which serves to keep the cartridge in the chamber of the firearm and to hold the cartridge at the proper depth in the chamber.
Rimmed bullets are well suited to revolver actions, and not so very well to guns that feed the ammo from box magazines. Examples of rimmed ammo include .38 Special and .44 Magnum.
To help understand the different bullet calibers' sizes, we put together this bullet size chart with the most common calibers included.
|Caliber||Type||Bullet Diameter (In)||Case Length (In)|
Okay, so we are now getting closer to know a lot more about bullets than we did before. But to truly understand ammo, we also need to know more about the different types of bullets that are available to us and which bullet types are the best for our specific needs.
These are typically bullets that have a copper jacket covering the top of the of the bullet, with the core usually consisting of a softer material such as lead. FMJ bullets are traditionally quite cheap to produce, which is why it is so popular for practising at the gun range.
The design of full metal jacket bullets is uniform and aerodynamic, which makes it a good choice for long range precision shooting. However, the design also means that the bullet will keep going through its target rather than stopping. This makes it less ideal for things like hunting or home-defence.
Sometimes folks mistake open tip bullets for hollow point bullets as they also have an opening at the top. However the open tip bullets have this opening due to the way they are made. They differ from the hollow point bullets in that their openings are too small to actually expand effectively upon impact.
These bullets are favourites among long distance shooters, as the bullets are very consistent (more so than the FMJ bullets).
Now we get to the truly deadly bullets. The hollow point bullets are designed to expand upon hitting the target and in doing so, provide a lot of stopping power. This also means that the round does not travel through the target, potentially hitting a secondary unintentional target.
If you want a bullet for self-defence purposes, this is the bullet to go for!
The soft point bullets try to make use of the advantages of the FMJ bullets, but that does not go through a target as easily. This is achieved whereby a part of the tip still has the soft lead exposed. The idea is that this soft lead tip will flatten upon impact with the target. However, modern ballistic tip bullets (mentioned below) provides better performance than the soft tip bullets.
If you want the advantages of the FMJ bullet and the hollow point bullet in one, then the ballistic tip bullet is the answer you are looking for.
It has a hollow point that will expand upon impact, but the hollow point is covered with a plastic cap. The plastic cap is shaped to mimic the aerodynamics of the FMJ bullet. So this way you get the stopping power of the hollow point, along with the consistency and accuracy of the FMJ bullet.
We hope this article has answered some of your questions about bullets, bullet sizes or just why bullets are named the way they are. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a note in the comments section below. We would love to hear from you!
Is your bugout bag all set and ready to go? Or as you pack up water, rations, first aid supplies, etc. are you wondering about what you should be "packing" in terms of a firearm?
In reality, prepared individuals should have a couple of different types of weapons at their disposal. The popular image of a survivalist or prepper is one whose "lair" is bulging with semi-automatic weapons and mounds of ammunition.
In fairness, there are those who feel that one can never have enough firearms and ammo on hand when preparing for trouble. And one can certainly understand that folks would want some sort of firearm in a survivalist scenario. Not just for self-defence, but also as a hunting tool to be able to gather food.
This should be a firearm that can be neglected for months, while also being sturdy enough that it can handle being knocked around and still function dependably.
So what should you be packing in every sense of the word in terms of firearms as you prepare to bugout? Consider:
Strictly speaking, a true "bugout" is an event that lasts seventy-two hours or less. On the other hand, a true bugout isn't a relaxed weekend camping trip with the kids. You have no idea of conditions or circumstances that you'll be encountering, or how long that you'll have to live with them.
You need a reliable, low maintenance, versatile firearm as part of your bugout bag. You need an air rifle.
Admittedly, it has been a really long time since the air rifle has been considered a state-of-the-art super weapon.
But there are multiple reasons why air rifles have never been out of style since their debut, and it's not just because they're great for target shooting competitions. The features that make air rifles consistently good all-around firearms work well for survivalist purposes as well.
There was a time (about thirty years ago, to be specific) when it would have been difficult to make this statement. Many air rifle models from this era were notorious for leaking, which in turn led to the guns losing velocity.
But modern day air rifles have improved in design, and this is far less likely a problem. And while air rifles need cleaning and maintenance just as with any other firearm, because of how these guns fire, there isn't carbon build-up as a result, meaning a lot less time spent cleaning rifle barrels.
We wouldn't call them air rifles if they weren't pneumatically propelled. But aside from that common factor, the different types of this firearm mean more choices for users in terms of performance than similar types of related firearms.
That means that "buggers" contemplating bringing along an air rifle shouldn't assume that any old one will do. They should take the time to read up on the various air rifle types (and their different maintenance needs), which include:
Pre-Charged Pneumatic (PCP)
Okay, an air rifle may not be the best choice for holding off a swarm of hungry zombies, or other real-life nasties you may encounter! But again, you should have already made room in that bugout bag for other firearm types, and you'll find plenty of other uses for your air rifle on the road or trail.
Since you'll be unlikely to find an open/well-stocked grocery stores in the aftermath of disaster, an air rifle is an excellent choice for hunting. You will not be able to go deer hunting with it, but you can certainly hunt small game with it, such as birds, rabbits or squirrels.
It also works well to eliminate feral and nuisance animals that might be competing with you for food.
One of the reasons that this type of firearm is so popular in shooting sports competitions is that many of these guns are easily adjustable and can be used by a range of shooters. So for folks who are not very experienced in shooting guns, an air rifle is an easier (and probably safer) option to handle than a high calibre gun.
And finally, these guns are incredibly accurate. While it's unlikely that you'll have time to participate in real life target shoots, this capability means that it's very good at finding real life targets, a sometimes unfortunate necessity of packing up and bugging out.
Do you have an air rifle as part of your bugout bag? If so, do you plan to be able to use it as a defensive weapon or purely as a hunting tool? Also, what air rifle would you choose for your bugout bag and why?
If you have any more thoughts on this topic, please share them with us by commenting in the comments section below. We would love to hear from you!
A common myth is that guns are just for hunting or self-defence. However since guns have been invented, shooting sports have been around to show off skills and even learn some new ones. Today there are many competitive shooting sports that you can get involved in. Some can even get you to the Olympics! Here is a list of the shooting events that are at the Olympics in case you are curious.
Besides providing you with enjoyment, competitive shooting has some benefits, which include:
All of this, and a chance to take part in a fun activity that doesn't involve hours in front of a computer screen! Competitive shooting is an activity that allows participants to improve general coordination in addition to firearm skills, make new friends, and have opportunities to travel as well.
But what exactly does competitive shooting entail in terms of necessary ability and equipment? And how much of a commitment in terms of time and money does it involve? Read on to learn more about a sport that's been around as long as firearms have, and what you'll need to take part in it yourself.
Competitive shooting sports have a very long and storied history. While the prizes may not be as exciting as they were in the earliest days (no more gold, sorry) today's competitive events are also much better organized, and safer.
Because of changes to events over the years, competitive shooting events are more inclusive, meaning that older, younger, and disabled firearm enthusiasts among others can take part in these events.
The practice and skill sets developed here can also allow participants to potentially achieve competitive shooting's ultimate prize; a place on the United States Olympic shooting team, which has brought home many medals over the years.
Competitive shooting is categorized by the type of gun being used, and then broken down into various events. Guns used at these events include:
You know those old "English country manor movies" where a character holding a firearm yells "Pull" and fires at targets thrown into the air? Then you've seen an example of competitive shotgun firing. Clay targets (simulating game birds) are always used, and types of this kind of competition include:
Skeet shooting - Targets are thrown into range from either side of the shooter.
Trap shooting - Targets are launched at different trajectories.
Sport shooting - Targets are launched from different angles and heights and at varying speeds.
Skills that can be shown off or acquired with competitive shotgun shooting include moving target and profile shooting.
This type of firearm competition can be further broken down into "cowboy shooting" (which involves using authentic 19th and early 20th century pieces), and contemporary shooting. Types of this kind of competition include:
Bullseye shooting (also known as conventional pistol shooting) - Involves firing at the traditional bullseye target.
Metallic silhouette shooting - A shooter fires on a target in the shape of a person or animal.
Metered shooting - Shooters aim for targets positioned at different distances.
Bowling pin - Shooters attempt to fire upon and knock down as many bowling pins as possible within a time limit.
And given the increased popularity of concealed carry, there are now various drawing competitions in which contestants attempt to draw and shoot from both concealed carry and open wear holsters.
The objectives with various types of pistol competition here are accuracy in fixed target hitting, and speed.
As with pistols, there are "cowboy shooting" events, and contemporary ones. Different competitive events here include:
Bench rest - Shooters crouch behind a bench, setting and aiming their rifles on top of it. The rifle is supported in front and behind to hold it as steady as possible. When given the "commence" signal, shooters begin firing rounds of ammunition in sustained bursts until told to stop. Shooters are attempting to hit a small target (hole) with as many clusters of ammunition as possible. Groupings of five or more bullets near the target generally produces a winner.
Silhouette shooting - Follows the same format as for pistols as shooters, are attempting to shoot metal man or animal targets.
Position shooting - Shooters change position at different times during the match, with time and ammunition amounts changing depending on the position. For example, a shooter firing from 600 yards would be given more time and have to strike the target with less ammunition, than one firing from 200 yards. Skill looked for here is the ability to fire accurately from a distance.
All shooting here must be done from a standing position, and distances can be no greater than 10 meters or 33 feet.
The most recent of the shooting sports, CAS originated in southern California in the 1980s, and is also known as western action shooting, single action shooting, or cowboy three-gun.
Participants must also dress in reproductions of period clothing, and use pistols and rifles that are either authentic, reproductions, or very similar to firearms used in the late 19th/early 20th centuries, such as various Winchester rifle models, or the famous Colt revolver. Contestants fire on targets, and skills measured include speed and accuracy.
Most competitive shooting matches are amateur affairs, and don't require any previous affiliation or training. Pre-registration may be required, and a small fee may be charged to cover expenses, pay for prizes, etc. But that doesn't mean that there aren't rules to follow for those who want to participate:
Even the Wild West CAS crowd adheres to strict safety standards. Don't expect to bring a loaded gun or one not securely in a holster or case, for example. Wait for clear instructions as to when you can load your piece, and where. Many competitions have strictly designated areas for this, known as "safety areas".
Again, you don't have to be Dead Eye Dick or Annie Oakley to participate in many of these events, but a working knowledge of how your piece operates is often an entry requirement.
You may be asked to demonstrate loading and unloading your gun, and quizzed on how to correct malfunctions. And asking "Safety catch? Where's that?" is sure to get you a place in the audience, but not in the competition itself.
Well, a piece and ammunition will be needed of course, or you won't be doing much shooting. Remember that the piece needs to be holstered or cased at all times until told otherwise. And you'll need to provide all cleaning and maintenance supplies.
Don't forget to bring safety glasses and ear protection with you as you won't be allowed to participate without it. A fair amount of leeway is permitted in regards to the type of hearing protection used, but remember that these events are noisy, so don't skimp.
And most of all, remember to bring patience, sportsmanship, and a sense of fun, three very useful items as you enter the wonderful world of competitive shooting.
If you are interested in competing at shooting sports, we hope you have found this article useful. Which shooting sport do you like best, and why? If you have some thoughts on shooting competitively, please share them with us in the comments section below, We would love to hear from you!
Every man tends to carry a few items with him every day. These are usually things that are necessary tools to get through the day or even for self-protection. Of course everyday carry (EDC) kit is something that has become more popular in recent times, especially with folks who prep, but for a lot of guys it is just something that is a part of their lifestyle. If you are a man, whether you are a prepper or not, there are a few basic items that you should consider carrying on you.
The items that I tend to carry with me every day include:
Every man has his own unique needs and preferences when it comes to what he will need to carry with him every day, but I will point out some key considerations when you look at your EDC options.
An EDC knife is not necessarily a weapon, but in most cases is rather a tool. If you need to do some heavy duty cutting with your knife, it won’t make sense to get a tiny little pocket knife. On the flip side, it won’t make sense to get a big knife that would make Rambo jealous just to cut open some envelopes every once in a while. The intended use of the knife will also have an effect on the shape of the blade, as each blade shape is designed with a specific use in mind. For example, knives with sharp thin points are good for piercing things, while a knife with a serrated edge is intended for sawing things.
Fixed blade vs folding knife
If you want a bigger and stronger knife that you don’t mind wearing on your belt, then a fixed blade knife is a good option for guys who will be doing a lot of work with their knives (such as hunters that need to do a lot of skinning or cutting rope etc). But personally I carry a folding knife as it takes up less space and I do not need a fixed blade knife too often. I especially like that a folding knife is usually a lot more discreet to carry on you without attracting unwanted attention.
I would also keep in mind the grip of the knife, especially if you need to do tasks with it that would require a solid grip. If you plan to use your knife in wet conditions a lot or for skinning animals, you would want to look for a grip that won’t absorb moisture and will be easy to clean.
The last consideration I would also think about is cost. Knives can range from very affordable to crazy expensive. For an everyday carry knife I prefer a knife that is reasonably affordable while still being of sufficient quality to take the punishments of everyday use.
A flashlight is one of those things that you do not realise how much you need it, until you actually need it! I carry a small, but very bright flashlight with me all the time. Not only is it a valuable tool at night, but it is also a good self-defence tool. If a would-be attacker tries to attack you, the bright light of the flashlight can be used to momentarily blind the attacker, giving you time to either retreat away or to launch a counter-attack.
The key considerations for me when I look at EDC flashlights:
Flashlights in my possession tend to take a beating as they are often thrown into a backpack with a bunch of stuff or are handled in rough outdoor environments. The better EDC flashlights tend to be constructed from materials such as military grade aircraft aluminum, which is very light but extremely strong.
Lumens are the measuring unit for how bright a flashlight’s light is. You can get some super bright flashlights that are hundreds of lumens bright, but in reality for an EDC flashlight you don’t need anything too extreme. I usually look for something that has a light of 50 lumens to 100 lumens.
Incandescent lamps used to be the lamp used in all flashlights, but since LED lamps have become commonly available, LED (Light Emitting Diode) is now the lamp of choice in flashligts. That is because they last longer, take less space, use less battery power and are much more robust than incandescent lamps.
From a prepper’s perspective, a flashlight with common regular batteries are a good choice as batteries like that would be much easier to find in an emergency scenario where there might not be power available. However for me, I want an EDC flashlight that is rechargeable. This makes it less expensive to use in the long run as I don’t need to go out and buy new batteries every few weeks.
I mentioned before that some people might think of their EDC knife as a self-defence weapon, but for me another self-defence option is a tactical pen. It might sound like a gimmick, but tactical pens are actually lethal weapons due to their strengthened points and strong construction. Admittedly, if you have to use a tactical pen then you are probably already in a world of trouble. The benefit of a tactical pen is that it is discreet (not easily recognized as being a weapon) and of course also provides you with a writing utensil!
As I want to have a tactical pen as a weapon, it needs to be really strong in order to be used as a weapon that can cause damage to an attacker. Similar to EDC flashlights, the better tactical pens are made from modern materials such as military grade aircraft aluminum to make it light-weight but also extremely strong.
When I look at the design of a tactical pen, I want a pen that would hold well in my hand as a stabbing weapon, which also has a good grip so that it won’t slip when I use it.
Some tactical pens come with additional features such as glass-breakers, seat-belt cutters, etc. Some are a bit gimmicky though, so be aware.
Above I talked about the three basic EDC items that I like to carry on me most of the time. Other items that you could also consider include:
This article was provided by Manomics.com
We came across this USMC training video that covers the basic of how to shoot a rifle. Needless to say a lot of folks will already know these basics, but if you are not very experienced yet, it might be beneficial to you to have a look at the video and familiarize yourself with what the Marines have to teach!
Sometimes your rifle starts shooting so bad that you want to start pulling your hair out! But then the problem becomes how to figure out what is causing it to misbehave the way it is. Below we look at a few easy (and reasonably logical) tips for diagnosing what is causing your rifle to shoot inaccurately.
Not all rifles are made equal when it comes to accuracy. So before anything else, make sure what your rifle is realistically cable of and what it is not capable of. The best way to do that, if you are not sure what your rifle is realistically capable of, is to ask around. Phone the manufacturer, ask around on gun forums or ask the pros at your local gunshop.
If you are using a scope, it might actually not be the rifle that is the problem, but rather the scope! Scopes can get damaged from excessive recoil or perhaps even from getting a hard knock somewhere. To check if your scope is working fine, you can try the “squaring the circle” technique.
It works as folllows: fire a shot; then, aiming at the same point each time, move the reticle 12 clicks (3 inches) up; then 12 clicks right; then 12 down; then 12 left. You should end up with four shots forming a square. If it does not form a square, then it is likely that your scope is the problem!
This one seems pretty obvious, but yet we are sure this occurs more frequently than most folks would like to admit. Copper fouling can start to build up in the barrel, which can greatly affect the accuracy of your rifle. For a rifle to be accurate, the barrel must have absolutely uniform dimensions (to the ten-thousandth of an inch) for the length of the bore in order to be accurate.
Sometimes even just trying a different brand of ammo with perhaps a different weight will make a difference in the accuracy of a rifle. So experiment and see which ammo your rifle likes best.
If you tried everything you could, but the rifle still keeps shooting inaccurately, it is probably best to take it back to the manufacturer so they can check to see what could be wrong with it.
If you do go that route, be sure to let them know everything you did to verify the problem yourself so they know that you are not just some quack wanting to complain about nothing.
We hope the few quick tips above helps you to avoid a lot of frustration and possible costs! An inaccurate rifle can be a real pain and perhaps even dangerous! So be sure to get to the root of the problem asap to get it fixed.
Most folks would not rebore a rifle themselves. It is much easier to send it off to a professional to do it for you, and you know it will probably get done without you messing up your own gun! However if you really want to know how to rebore a rifle barrel for a larger caliber, check out this video from Midway USA we came across. Hope you enjoy it!
As you may well notice, reboring a rifle is not a simple task. You need the right equipment and certain skills to be able to properly complete the task of reboring and rechambering a rifle.
If you are not experienced in this type of work, you should perhaps consider rather a professional doing the task for you. Not only will it probably save you from ruining a vintage rifle, but it will also be a lot safer!
Have you ever rebored and rechambered a rifle yourself? How did it go? Would you recommend folks try to do it themselves or should they rather just leave it to the professionals?
If you have any thoughts or tips that you would like to share with the rest of us, please feel free to leave a note in the comments section below. We would love to hear from you!
Most shooters put far too much importance on their guns and rifle scopes and nowhere near enough emphasis on shooting. Aside from having an accurate, well-tuned rifle and the best rifle scope for your needs, you must practice, practice and practice some more. Unfortunately, most people just don’t have the time to get to the range frequently. But being short of time doesn’t mean you have to settle for being a mediocre shot. If you’re tired of missing your mark here are five surefire tips that will have you well on your way to improving your aim:
Most shooters are under the impression a trigger should be squeezed, but as the well-known and respected retired Outdoor Life Magazine Shooting Editor Jim Carmichael once pointed out, the trigger must be jerked, but in a very controlled manner. For anyone who has ever tried to shoot in any position without a solid rest knows the longer the gun is held on target the more it wavers. Carmichael wrote the trigger must be pulled at the precise moment when your brain tells you the sight picture is perfect, and trying to slowly squeeze the trigger just gives the gun time to wobble off target. If you think Jim’s advice is all wet, consider that this is the same man who set the new benchrest world record in 2013, a record that stood for 20 years, with a five-shot group measuring 0.009 inches, the thickness of five magazine pages!
Once mastered, the “controlled jerk” will improve your marksmanship beyond belief, even from an offhand position. For example, a great technique for offhand shooting is to swing the rifle in a figure-eight pattern, having the crosshairs intersect the target at the middle of the swing, and jerk the trigger at the precise instant when the crosshairs meet the mark.
Muscle memory is a synonym for motor learning, a form of procedural memory involving strengthening a specific motor movement through repetition. In English, that means the more you repeat a movement the stronger the connection between the muscles and your brain becomes. Walking is the ultimate example of muscle memory; you do it so much that the contention between your brain and the muscles is so developed you never even have to think about it. You can do the same with your shooting motion, without going broke buying ammo, through the magic of dry firing.
Place some targets or pictures of game animals on your walls and start practicing. The wonderful thing about building muscle memory for a task is you don’t have to do it all at once; just a few shots a few times a week will added up to you becoming a crack shot. Keep in mind, dry firing indoors is best suited to open sights and low-power rifle scopes. Also, to state the obvious, be sure your gun is unloaded before you start dry firing, and be sure to close the blinds so a neighbor doesn’t see you and call the police.
Going hand-in-hand with dry firing is the exercise of “calling your shot.” Simply stated, this is the practice of mentally asking yourself where the sights were at the exact moment you heard the “click” of the firing pin falling. If you answer yourself honestly you will quickly master the controlled jerk and immeasurably improve your marksmanship. Additionally, learning to call your shot consistently and accurately will tell your immediately at the shot if you hit your mark when in the field.
Finally, if you start to fatigue when shooting either live ammo or dry firing, know it’s time to quit! You won’t be accomplishing anything past that point, other than wasting ammo and aggravating yourself. There are also going to be those day when you aren’t at your best, or maybe you just don’t feel like shooting.
Jim Carmichael’s predecessor at Outdoor Life, the late great Jack O’Connor wrote that a bum shot with a magnum is still a bum shot; and far too many hunters place too much emphasis on power and not enough on marksmanship. The Billings Gazette once ran an article about a woman who lived just north of Yellowstone Park, who had killed an elk every season for twenty three years running. This was quite a feat, considering the hunter-success rate for elk in Montana hovers around 20 percent. When asked how she did it she simply stated “I never miss.” The kicker to the story was the huntress used what most would consider a too diminutive caliber for elk, the 6mm Remington. Of course, this made all the men in the magnum crowd howl, but the reality is if you have too much gun you are going to flinch. Be honest with yourself, and if you are even a little scared of your .300 magnum, trade it in for something with a little less kick.
Guest contributor bio:
Besides being an outdoor enthusiast, Andrew loves hanging out with his wife and seeing life through the eyes of his 4 year old daughter. His fresh take on life and learning new things, coupled with a love for writing, sets the tone in his pieces and lends itself very well to being a contributing writer for a number of outdoors/gun sites. He can also be found shooting a Canon camera.
Many people will, rightly so, wonder what exactly makes a pen “tactical”? With anything and everything being called tactical these days, it is easy to be suspicious and wonder if the pen is in fact mightier than the sword!
Tactical pens are pens that are made from sturdy materials (usually military grade materials such as Aircraft Aluminum) that make them much harder than your typical pen. Tactical pens are also designed with features such as sharpened edges, which turns them from mere writing utensils into effective self-defense weapons. Some tactical pens also have other additional features, such as fire-straters and DNA catchers. A lot of folks like carrying tactical pens as self-defense weapons because they are “hide in plain sight” type of weapons. While guns and knives are obvious weapons and cannot be taken into a lot of areas, people will most likely not even notice that pen that you are carrying in your pocket.
However, a self-defense weapon is only effective if you know how to use it! This is especially true for tactical pens, as you will need to be in close proximity to your attacker to be able to use the pen. So if you ever have to use your tactical pen to defend yourself, you better be sure you know what to do with it!
Rather than finding yourself in a dangerous situation where you need to physically protect yourself, you should keep in mind a few key take-aways to try and avoid being attacked:
You can read more about avoidance, awareness and prevention for self-defense here.
The graphic above gives us a good indication of some of the basic areas of a body where an attacker could be vulnerable. There are other areas that are also considered very vulnerable (such as the temples and kidneys, but if you are untrained in self-defense, these basic areas are what you should focus on for now. Trying to attack other areas without sufficient training in how to do so, could result in you not being able to effectively protect yourself against your attacker.
The videos below illustrate how to effectively use a tactical pen to defend yourself.
We are increasingly faced with dangerous situations where we need to be able to protect ourselves against possible attackers. With gun and knife laws being very strict in a lot of areas, alternative self-defense weapons are a necessity. Especially self-defense weapons that you can keep with you most of the time and that is not an obvious weapon. Tactical pens satisfies those requirements, and for that reason a lot of folks like to carry tactical pens with them. For the tactical pen to be an effective weapon, you need to know how to use it though. So we hope the above information helps you to be able to protect yourself when needed.
If you are serious about self protection, we highly recommend you obtain formal training from a qualified instructor so that you can be confident in your capabilities. And always remember, stay safe!!